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June 10, 2008 issue
EMU's Dining Services offers healthier options


By Amy E. Whitesall

 

Tom Murray is determined to give dorm food a good name.

Working with EMU's Office of Nutritional Services (ONS), Eastern Michigan University's executive chef has traded fried for fresh in EMU's dining halls and managed to cut waste and add customers in the process — this on a campus that Men's Fitness magazine ranked among the nation's least fit in 2005.

"Whenever they say, 'Chef, can you do it?' I'm doing it and asking for forgiveness later," said Murray, who came to EMU in 2006 after 22 years in the hotel industry.

healthy salad

GOING GREEN: This fresh salad, offered at Sbarro
in the Student Center, is just one healthy offering
of many made to improve eating habits on campus.
Since coming to EMU in 2006, Executive Chef Tom
Murray has worked to improve the kinds and types
of foods offered at EMU's 20 campus eating venues.

Murray saw opportunities to feed EMU better in all 20 of the campus venues he oversees. But, he was prepared for backlash when he pulled the plug on French fries, the most popular item in Dining Commons (DC) One, the campus's busiest cafeteria. Fried chicken got the boot, too, as did lots of pre-packaged foods. Rather than buying meatloaf and Salisbury steak, the kitchens started making their own. No more mystery meat.

Despite a drop in the number of students living in residence halls — and, therefore, eating on meal plans — DC One alone picked up some 15,000 customers from 2006-07 to 2007-08.

"For the most part, I think the students, as well as the faculty, really liked the idea of healthier options on campus," said Kara Karalis, one of five dietetics students who conducted their food-systems rotation with Murray during the winter semester. "The next major part I think the campus has to work on is advertisement of that healthier food. I heard from the managers that students were still complaining that there weren't any healthy options. If the students don't know that it's there, they won't take advantage of it."

Karalis, who graduated in May with a degree in dietetics, was part of a new collaboration between dining services and nutrition services. The Office of Nutrition Services, which is open Monday-Thursday during the fall and winter semesters, and on Tuesdays through spring and summer, offers nutritional counseling and body composition analysis to students for $5 a visit and to faculty, staff and the community for $10. The office, staffed by dietetics students as part of their supervised practice hours, also provides nutrition expertise to the campus and community.

Students from ONS worked with Murray and his staff, each addressing specific nutrition-oriented problems — gluten-free offerings, trans-fat free offerings and how to realistically eat healthy at each of EMU's food service venues. He challenged them to not only come up with solutions, but also market them to the campus community.

grilled chicken

GOOD AND GRILLED: This grilled chicken
plate with fresh fruit is one of a number of
healthy offerings provided by EMU's Dining
Services. Unless one stops at KFC, fried
chicken is now a thing of the past on
campus.

"A lot of times, in food service, the bottom line is the mighty dollar and what sells," said Lydia Kret, dietetics and human nutrition program director. "We know kids love French fries and pizza, but these students have seen that you can make changes. You can collaborate with food service as a dietician and have healthy choices available, and people will accept them."

Murray's brought his fresh approach to any campus food outlet that's not a franchise — and some that are. He convinced the Sbarro in the Student Center to add a salad bar, which last school year sold about 8,200 salads.

"He's got a lot of energy, and he walks the talk, too," said Diane Reynolds, dietetics clinical coordinator. "He lives and eats healthfully and, generally, people who live and eat healthfully have a lot more energy in their day, and that shows. You have to keep moving to keep up with him."

Meanwhile, EMU students go through 30 cases of fresh fruit a day at a single station in DC ONE. The fruit bar features eight different fruits every day, along with granola and two different kinds of yogurt. Last year's grocery list included 300 cases of romaine lettuce, $7,000 worth of grapefruit and $9,000 worth of orange sections.
Fresh produce is more expensive than junk food, but the kitchens save money by making their own meatloaf and macaroni and cheese. And because fresh food is made-to-order, less gets wasted.

"To me, I think all the numbers are washed away by coverage," Murray said. "The more guests you have, the more it covers costs."

Next year, Murray plans to take aim at not only fresh ingredients, but food served fresh from the kitchen. He plans to put individual servings on platters, five or six servings to a tray, rather than serve them out of pans that hold 30-40 servings.

"It's more pressure on the waiters and cooks to keep up with it, but it's fresher food for the students, rather than a pan of lasagna that's been sitting there for three hours."